On 12 March, the De Young Museum in San Fran Francisco presented "Oscar de la Renta. Retrospective ", an exhibition that pays tribute to the designer from 130 of their joint and will travel internationally when there close its doors on May 30.
The exhibition traces, step by step, the evolution of his style and his career over five decades, since its formation and first orders in our country to its consolidation as a major international figure.
Born in 1932 into a wealthy family in the Dominican Republic, it was formed in art in Spain in the fifties and in 1954 began working as a cartoonist for Cristobal Balenciaga, for many the best couturier those years. In 1956 he designed a dress(formal dresses) for Cabot Lodge Beatrice, daughter of the US ambassador in Spain, and that custom allowed him to appear for the first time in Life magazine.
In order to advance his career, in 1959 he moved to Paris to work at the firm Lanvin-Castillo. He abandons in 1963; that year he moved to New York to focus on creating fashion ready-to-wear. He was chief designer Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby joined as a partner in 1965; he would take over the company after his death. For two years running, in 1967 and 1968, he received the prestigious Coty Award, awarded to the best American designer considered, and a year later would receive US citizenship.
His successes in that country had only just started: in 1973 he becomes President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and in 1977 launched its first fragrance, Oscar.
Not only worried about advancing your career, was also Oscar de la Renta a philanthropist: launched in 1982 in the Dominican Republic orphanage / kindergarten La Casa del Niño, which has hosted 1200 kids.
His creations of the eighties were, perhaps, the most striking. Inspired in his native Caribbean and the s XVIII French and costumes of Marie Antoinette, achieved critical acclaim as good as commercial.
1991 was a year of changes in the presentations of their collections: he broke the usual rate among American fashion designers to showcase their designs earlier in Paris autumn in New York. That decision was at bottom a statement of intent: in 1993 he joined the Balmain house, keeping his New York line.
prizes will happen: received in the nineties the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Hispanic Heritage Foundation and the French Legion of Honor and in 2000 the CFDA Best Designer of the Year female line and our Medal for Fine Arts.
It also expanded collections: in 2001 it introduced the accessory, home in 2002, in 2014 opened its flagship store on Madison Avenue and in 2006 presented her first bridal collection. From then until his death two years ago in Connecticut, he continued to expand his empire and already starred in some exhibitions.
Says André Leon Talley, curator of San Francisco and friend of De la Renta, the couturier carried the heat of paradise and all their designs are cashmere coats and evening dresses, reflected in the background, tropical atmosphere and loving family in which he grew up. It is stylized, very feminine and classic cut that abound draping pieces; today considered an emblem of good taste, but behind them there is much more than a good eye: it is the talent of its best teachers, who knew learn the keys, not only the pattern, but also the commercial success; a brilliant adaptation of the seam ready to wear and a love for the woman in the case was more than a phrase: Dominican designs are really as sophisticated and elegant as current.
The exhibition will be special for fans of De la Renta: the company has opened files to examine thoroughly their work and give pieces from his personal collection. They have also provided international private lenders designs and fine arts museums.